Form for shaping garments in the region of neck and shoulders



y 1962 F. H. RICHTERKESSING 3,033,429

FORM FOR SHAPING GARMENTS IN THE REGION OF NECK AND SHOULDERS 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Original Filed June 27, 1957 INVENTOR. FRANK H. RIGHTERKESSING wz. W

ATTQR N EY y 1962 F. H. RICHTERKESSING 3,033,429

FORM FOR SHAPING GARMENTS IN THE REGION OF NECK AND SHOULDERS 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 Original Filed June 27, 1957 INVBVTOR.

FRANK H. RICHTERKESSING ATTORNEY y 1962 F. H. RICHTERKESSING 3,033,429

FORM FOR SHAPING GARMENTS IN THE REGION OF NECK AND SHOULDERS Original Filed June 27, 1957 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 INVENTOR. FRANK H. RICHTERKESSING ATTORNEY nite I 3,033,429 Patented May 8, 196 2 3,033,429 FURM FOR SHAPING GARMENTS IN THE REGION OF NECK AND SHOULDERS Frank Richterkessing, Louisville, Ky., assignor to W. M. Cissell Manufacturing Company, Louisville, Ky., a corporation of Kentucky Continuation of application Ser. No. 668,522, June 27, 1957. This application May 2, 1960, Ser. No. 26,220

8 Claims. (Cl. 22368) The present application is a continuation of my copending application, Serial No. 668,522, filed June 27, 1957, now abandoned.

This invention relates to an improved form for shaping or blocking garments in the region of the neck and shoulders thereof and, more particularly, to a form for this purpose adapted for use with the well-known bag type garment finisher.

An object of my invention is to provide an improved form having the capability of shaping garments in the region of the neck and shoulders thereof with greater fidelity to the actual configuration of the human body for which the garment is intended.

Another object is to provide an improved form which may be readily adjusted for handling a wide range of sizes of garments.

A further object is to provide an improved form for use with bag type garment finishers and which requires no special construction of the remainder of the finisher in order to be employed therewith.

Still a further object is to provide an improved form having interchangeable parts and arranged in a compact assembly.

Other objects and advantages will become apparent as the description proceeds and when considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of the form shown diagrammatically in position upon a garment finisher structure.

FIG. 2 is a front elevation of the form with portions broken away and showing the shoulder shaping arms in fully extended position;

FIG. 3 is a bottom view of the form of FIG. 2 showing the interior arrangement of parts;

FIG. 3A is a sectional view taken on line 3A-3A of FIG. 2;

FIG. 4- is a diagrammatic view along line 44 of FIG. 2 showing angular relationships of the several movable elements of the form, but with these elements removed from the hollow shell in order to clarify the showing.

FIG. 4A is a schematic view further illustrating the angular relationships;

FIG. 4B is another schematic view further illustrating the angular relationships;

FIG. 4C is a side elevation view of the bearing plate to a larger scale;

FIG. 4]) is a top plan view of the bearing plate;

FIG. 5 is a bottom view of a shoulder shaping arm;

FIG. 6 is a sectional view taken on line 66 of FIG. 5; and

FIG. 7 is a sectional view taken on line 7--7 of FIG. 5.

in accordance With my invention I provide a form having a hollow central shell portion whose outer surface conforms to the general pattern of the upper shoulder girdle portion of the human body. At this portion of the upper appendicular skeleton of the body, the clavicle, or collar bone, and the scapula, or shoulder blade, extend from a region adjacent the thoracic vertebrae below and rearwardly of the cervical vertebrae. Thus, the muscular portions extending outwardly from the neck to the tips of the shoulders are located in a plane extending upwardly and disposed at an acute angle with respect to the plane which includes the vertical axis of the body and passing through the junction of the head and spine.

Accordingly, in shaping, as Well as in retaining the appropriate shape of, a garment which is constructed for a proper fit at the neck and shoulders consideration must be given to this condition. I, therefore, provide adjustable shoulder shaping members mounted in the central shell portion and arranged for movement in the thusdescribed plane which most accurately conforms to the normal shoulder configuration of the body.

Referring now to FIG. 1, the form generally indicated at 10 comprises a hollow central shell with an outer sur face having a front portion 11 of substantially fiat configuration, a back portion 12 of convex shape, a convex right shoulder portion 13, a convex left shoulder portion 14, and a convex upper neck portion 15. Preferably, the form is constructed of a die cast metallic material which may be zinc or chrome plated to make it resistant to processing fluids used in garment finishing operations, and in addition, has a smooth outer surface formed by the gradual merging of each of the above mentioned surfaces into each other. The form is adapted for rigid mounting at the upper end of the internal supports 16 and 17 of a garment finisher, such as shown for example in the co-pending application of William M. Cissell and Frank H. Richterkessing, Serial No. 586,710, filed May 23, 1956 and issued on August 9, 1960 as US. Patent No. 2,948,443, and the distendable fluid previous bag of which fits closely over the upper neck portion 15 of the form and has selectively operable por tions at the side through which the shoulder shaping members, later to be described, are adapted to project.

As seen in FIGS. 3A and 4, the shell body is provided with a central, transverse web section 20 serving as a guide for the projections 46 and 46 of the adjustable shoulder members 40 and 40 and as a support for the actuating means therefor. On its lower surface the web includes two spaced semi-circular openings which coincide with similar semi-circular openings in the upper surface of a substantial web 24 carried by a transverse bearing plate 21 and establishing circular openings 22 and 23 for reception of the suitably curved guide projections 46 and 46 on the shoulder members. At its central region, the bearing plate includes that web 24, as best seen in FIG. 4C, and at its extremities the plate is adapted to be rigidly affixed to bosses formed in the shell portion, as by means of detachable bolts 25 and 26 serving in the ready assembly or disassembly of the structure.

As a significant feature, the bearing plate 21 includes a bushing 27 having its axis inclined at an obtuse angle a with respect to vertical line AB. It will be understood that in mounting the form upon the members 16 and 17 of the garment finisher, the line A-B will lie in a vertical reference plane corresponding to a plane including the vertical axis of the human body on which the garment is to be worn and passing through the junction of the head and spine of that body.

At its extreme ends the shell is provided with generally semi-circular, die-cast integral end portions 28, 29 (FIGS. 2 and 3) terminating in inwardly directed recessed ledges 30, 31 and 32, 33 serving to slidably mount the shoulder members which have a generally semi-circular transverse cross-section as seen in FIG. 7 and curved on a common radius longitudinally of these members, as seen in FIG. 4B. As a further significant feature of my invention, each of the end portions of the shell is so constructed that an upwardly extending plane equally dividing the semicircular openings of those end portions intersects the reference plane including line A-B at an acute angle 6 which is substantially twice the value of l-angle a. For symmetry, the intersection of these'planes is along a horizontal line located beneath the shell and represented at C in FIG. 4A.

I have found that in the average person standing erect, the vertical plane passing through the uppermost cervical vertebrae of the neck and sides of the body is about 12 from the upwardly extending plane which passes through the central part of the muscular formation included in the tops of both shoulders. In certain cases, garments are formed with padding to compensate for deviations from this standard, but in shaping all garments, the most satisfactory results appear to be derived when this normal relationship is observed. Thus, I construct my improved form so that angle 3 is about 12.

Referring now to FIGS. and 6, an interchangeable diecast shoulder shaping arm which may serve either as the right shoulder arm 40 or the left shoulder arm 40 (FIG. 1) is employed. This arm may comprise an elongated member 41 curved longitudinally on radius R and having a generally semi-circular cross section of a size permitting close engagement with the openings in the end portions 28 and 29 of the shell. The extreme outer end of the member preferably is smoothly contoured to prevent snagging of a garment thereon and at an inwardly spaced location contains an integral cross bar 42 having a pair of spaced apertures 43 and 44 therein, the cross bar being suitably beveled at its side edges to avoid interference in movement along the recessed ledges of the shell. An integral web 45 on the interior of the arm and spaced to one side of the centerline thereof has an integral guide projection 46 which is curved at the same center as the curvature of the arm 41, but with a smaller radius R At its extreme end the guide is provided with an integral abutment 47 facing downward and serving to limit the outward movement of the arm with respect to the shell while the inner end 48 of the arm in turn serves to limit the inward movement of the arm.

As will be apparent from FIGS. 2, 3, 3A and 4, when the shoulder members are fully extended the respective abutments 47 (for the right shoulder arm) and 47 (for the left shoulder arm) engage against the co-operating stationary web portions 20 and 24 of the shell, and when the shoulder members are fully retracted the inner end 48 (for the right shoulder member) and 48 (for the left shoulder member) engage against those same Web portions.

As a further significant feature of the invention, I also have found that in the average person standing erect, the upper side of the shoulders lies generally in a uniformly shaped are represented by a radius of about 23.5 inches extending from a center reference point D near the lower end of the spine. Accordingly, I provide a radius R (FIGS. 4B and 6) for the upper longitudinal center surface of arm 41 which is equal to about 23.5 inches. It will be understood that this radius is employed for both of the shoulder arm members serving as the right shoulder arm 40 and the left shoulder arm 40 and is taken at the common center D which lies below the intersection of the aforementioned vertical reference plane with the other plane lying at angle ,3 therefrom, all as indicated in FIG. 4A. This radius is satisfactory when finishing garments either of a size for adults or of a size for children. The above-described relationships are obtained, for example, when dimensions E, F, G and H shown in FIG. .4A are respectively 23.5; 33 9 17%;; and 6 inches and when angles a and [3 are respectively 174 and 12.

For the purpose of adjusting the shoulder size of the form a manually operable knob 50 is mounted for rotatable movement against the top edge 51 of the upper neck portion 15 of the form and with that top edge lying in a plane sloping from the horizontal and toward the front 11 of the form at the angle 7, as seen in FIG. 4. The angle 7 preferably is equal to 180 minus angle on. Attached to the knob is a shaft 52 extending through bushing 27 and having pinned thereto a rocking lever having arms 53 and 54. A compression spring 55 interposed between the rocking lever and the bearing plate 21 serves to hold knob 50 tightly in place on the form and to prevent inadvertent adjustment of the shoulder arms.

Each of the lever arms 53 and 54 is connected to the respective pair of shoulder arms 40 and 40 by means of interchangeable links 56 and 57 adapted to be engaged in apertures 43 and 43 in the respective arms as shown in FIG. 3. The links may conveniently comprise rod-like members bent at their ends to engage in suitable apertures in the cross bars 42 and 42 and in the rocking lever, thus to form a swivelled connection therewith. It will be understood that since these arms are interchangeable they may be reversed, in which event, the same links would then engage in apertures 43 and 43, respectively, while arm 40 then occupies the position of arm 40 and arm 40 then occupies the position of arm 40 This interchangeability is of particular advantage in manufacture, stocking and maintenance of the equipment. The effective length of the arms of the rocking lever and of the links is such as to simultaneously retract the shoulder arms an equal distance when the knob 50 is moved in one direction and to extend them simultaneously an equal distance when the knob is moved in the opposite direction.

By means of the structure, as thus described, when the shoulder arms are extended from a minimum spacing at which the ends 28 and 29 of the shell substantially coincide with the extreme outer ends of the arms, to a maximum spacing at which the abutment 47, 47 on the guides 46, 46 abut against the junction of webs 20 and 24, the entire path of travel of the arms is in the plane disposed at angle 5 from the vertical plane of line A-B. In addition, at all points along their trajectories, the central upper surface of those arms remains at a fixed radius with respect to the same point of reference D, corresponding to the selected point near the base of the spine. Each garment shaped or blocked upon the form therefore is shaped or blocked in fidelity to the body configuration upon which it will be worn, and provides a proper fit when later worn.

By mounting the axis of shaft 52 at angle a, I am enabled to move both shoulder arms with substantially the same effort and to avoid a binding of these arms with respect to the openings in the ends 28 and 29 of the shell. As seen in FIGS. 5 and 7, the aperture 43 into which link 57 engages, is in substantial prolongation of guide 46 and these lie to one side of the center line of the arm. The guides of both arms therefore may lie in parallel spaced planes, as seen in FIG. 3, and move with out interference with each other. The pivot point of the rocking arm lies in a plane which is equally distant from the vertical reference plane through line AB and from the plane in which these arms move. Thus an intcrchangeable arrangement of the lever arms 53 and 54 and of links 56 and 57 is made possible while permitting equal and simultaneous adjustment of the right and of the left shoulder arms. Moreover, a compact arrangement particularly suitable for use with the bag-type garment finishers is thus accomplished. As used herein the term shaping includes the blocking of garments, the retaining of the shape of a garment which already has the proper shape when placed upon the form, and the re-establishing of the proper shape of a garment which has lost its proper shape prior to being placed on the form.

In accordance with the patent statutes, I have described what at present is considered to be the preferred embodiment of my invention, but it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications may be made therein without departing from the true spirit and scope of the invention and I, therefore, aim to cover in the appended claims, all such equivalent variations and modifications.

What is claimed is:

l. A form for shaping the neck and shoulder portions of a garment comprising, a hollow shell having an outer surface defining neck and shoulder portions corresponding to those of the human body and including a front surface portion and a rear surface portion with openings between said front and rear surface portions facing toward the upper arm regions, shoulder shaping members movably mounted in each of said openings for extension and retraction therethrough, each of said members being mounted for movement in a common plane inclined toward the rear surface portion of said shell and forming an acute angle with respect to a reference vertical plane passing through said shell between the front and rear surface portions thereof and intersecting said common plane along a horizontal line beneath said shell, and means for moving each of said members simultaneously along a fixed uniform radius and from a common center located in said common plane and including a shaft mounted in said shell between said front and rear surface portions thereof, said shaft being inclined from said vertical reference plane at an obtuse angle measured in a downward direction from said reference plane, said shaft having a knob attached thereto exteriorly of said shell for rotatable manipulation of said shaft, a rocking lever rigidly attached adjacent its center to said shaft adjacent the lower end thereof, a plate mounted interiorly of said shell and journalling said shaft intermediate the upper and lower ends of said shaft for rotatable movement, said plate having an apertured web section disposed within said shell and said shoulder shaping members having a curved guide portion movable through said apertured web section and carrying an abutment engageable with said web section at the extreme extension of said members from said shell, and links connecting said lever adjacent its ends to the respective shoulder members whereby upon rotation of said knob in one direction both shoulder members are simultaneously retracted into said shell and upon rotation in the other direction both members are simultaneously extended from said shell.

2. A form for shaping the neck and shoulder portions of a garment comprising, a hollow shell having an outer surface defining neck and shoulder portions corresponding to those of the human body and including a front surface portion and a rear surface portion with openings between said front and rear surface portions facing toward the upper arm regions, shoulder shaping members movably mounted in each of said openings for extension and retraction therethrough, each of said members being mounted for movement in a common plane inclined toward the rear surface portion of said shell and forming an acute angle with respect to a reference vertical plane passing through said shell between the front and rear surface portions thereof and intersecting said common plane along a horizontal line beneath said shell, and oscillatable means mounted within said shell and connected to said members for moving each of said members simultaneously along a fixed uniform radius and from a common center located in said common plane, said acute angle being of a value commensurate With movement of said members through said openings without binding engagement therein.

3. A form as defined in claim 2 wherein said acute angle is about 12.

4. A form for shaping the neck and shoulder portions of a garment comprising a hollow shell having an outer surface defining neck and shoulder portions corresponding to those of the human body and including a front surface portion and a rear surface portion with openings between said front and rear surface portions facing toward the upper arm regions, shoulder shaping members movably mounted in each of said openings for extension and retraction therethrough, each of said members being mounted for movement in a common plane inclined toward the rear surface portion of said shell and forming an acute angle with respect to a reference vertical plane passing through said shell between the front and rear surface portions thereof and intersecting said common plane along a horizontal line beneath said shell, and oscillatable means mounted within said shell and connected to said members for moving each of said members simultaneously along a fixed uniform radius and from, a common center located in said common plane and including a shaft mounted in said shell between said front and rear surface portions thereof, said shaft being inclined from said vertical reference plane at an obtuse angle measured in a downward direction from said reference plane, said shaft having a knob attached thereto exteriorly of said shell for oscillatable manipulation of said shaft, a rocking lever rigidly attached adjacent its center to said shaft adjacent the lower end thereof, a plate mounted interiorily of said shell and journalling said shaft intermediate the upper and lower ends of said shaft for oscillatable movement, and links connecting the lever adjacent its ends to the respective shoulder members whereby upon rotation of said knob in one direction both shoulder members are simultaneously retracted into said shell and upon rotation in the other direction both members are simultaneously extended from said shell, said acute angle being of a value commensurate with movement of said members through said openings without binding engagement therein.

5. A form as defined in claim 4 wherein said acute angle is about twice the value of minus said obtuse angle.

6. A form as defined in claim 5 wherein said acute angle is about 12.

7. A form for shaping the neck and shoulder portions of a garment comprising, a hollow shell having an outer surface defining neck and shoulder portions corresponding to those of the human body and including a front surface portion and a rear surface portion with openings of generally semi-circular peripheral cross section between said front and rear surface portions facing toward the upper arm regions, interchangeable right and left shoulder shaping members movably mounted in each of said openings for extension and retraction therethrough,

each of said members having a generally semi-circular j peripheral cross-section and being curved longitudinally of the member, the longitudinal curve of each member being defined by a radius taken about a common center, each of said members being mounted for movement in a common plane inclined toward the rear surface portion of said shell and forming an acute angle with respect to a reference vertical plane passing through said shell between the front and rear surface portions thereof and intersecting said common plane along a horizontal line beneath said shell, said common center lying in said common plane, and oscillatable means mounted within said shell and connected to said members for moving said members simultaneously for extension from and retraction into said shell, said acute angle being commensurate with movement of said members through said openings without binding engagement therein.

8. A form as defined in claim 7 wherein said center is located about 23.5 inches from the longitudinally curved surfaces of each of said members passing through the central portions of said openings.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,273,743 Weinstein Feb. 17, 1942 2,273,744 Weinstein Feb. 17, 1942 2,925,944 Inserillo Feb. 23, 1960 FOREIGN PATENTS 658,886 Great Britain Oct. 17, 1951 

